So much of the surf world is centered in Southern California that sometimes people forget that up north there’s such a huge talent pool. What’s it like to be a grom in Santa Cruz these days?
For me Santa Cruz is the best place ever to grow up. Sometimes it’s a little tough to get waves when the older guys are out, but you know, there are just so many waves over here. I can surf a point break, a beachbreak—whatever I want basically—and consistently get really good waves.
If being a surfer doesn’t pan out for some reason, what would you want to do with the rest your life?
Well, I hope that doesn’t happen, but if it does I think I’d like to be a chef and just make killer food, like some really good steaks or something. [Laughs] I know that sounds weird and a little random, but I don’t know, I just think that would be fun.
How much of a pain is it to share a name with a surfing legend?
[Laughs] You know, it’s a little annoying, but I don’t really care. People are always coming up to me and saying, “Did you know that you’re named after a surfing legend?” Yeah, yeah, I know I have the same names as a legend. It’s pretty funny because I’ve never actually met him, but I heard he’s a great guy. I guess it’s a pretty cool thing.